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James Hoban's Irish Restaurant
Stroll by James Hoban’s in Dupont, and you’ll feel as though you’ve rolled onto the shores of County Cork and landed at their coolest restaurant.
James Hoban’s dispels the myth Celtic-cuisine gives the adjective “bland” new meaning and, pardon the pun… that’s no blarney. Some Irish restaurants are all leprechauns and clover, but not this Irish eatery. The décor reflects the funky burgeoning changes on the Emerald Island, yet still holds its proud traditions of artsy-fartsy fun. Irish heroes of literature smile beguilingly from the walls, as you choose from a wide range of appetizers, many of which maintain the Irish theme without being engulfed by it.
The soup of the day - potato, bacon and cabbage would make the Irish Tenors belt out Green, Green Grass of Home! And the Kinsale chowder left us truly wanting more. Being totally earnest, Oscar himself would be Wilde about the Crab Croquettes. Relatively speaking, The Einstein Shrimp is a wise choice. Wonderfully presented with katafi, or for those of us without its namesake’s brain - shredded phyllo.
There are many traditional Irish entrées. The ever-present Guinness lamb stew and a constant British favorite, bangers and mash certainly won’t alienate American appetites. The hearty, sizzling, lamb and Angus burgers are more beer-food than, the Mediterranean Panini or Maryland style crab cakes, which go great with a glass of white. A wide variety of salads and sandwiches accommodate every mood. We slaughtered Shepherd’s Pie, which was as delicious as it was abundant. Our half roast chicken with Irish stuffing, fresh veggies and mashed potatoes was good hearty fare.
The deserts are less Irish in flavor, apart from the traditional bread pudding, which we resisted. Instead, we plumped for the Iles Flotantes a.k.a. Islands in the stream, which would make Dolly Parton go belly-up with delight. Slow baked meringue, encasing chocolate mousse swimming in crème anglaise. WOW! The lemon tart was a delicious zesty lemony concoction on a pastry crust – not too sweet or heavy. And the cinnamon ice cream was wonderfully subtle in its flavor.
It may be a long way to Tipperary, but you don’t have to venture across the Atlantic to experience the Bounty of Celtic cooking. James Hoban’s will leave your taste buds happily hung-over with an intoxicating mix of Irish Pride and European style. All dishes were presented beautifully. And the price for enjoying our meal was very reasonable. The informality of a vibrant pub and an entirely satisfying restaurant – a well dressed, but informal joint with good food. A simple concept impeccably realized: a DOUBLE DULEY DO!
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City Living Source © 2007
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