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Ulah
One of the most beloved streets in our District is U Street. At any time you can find places to work or work out, shop, play, live and feed…feed your mind, feed your soul and, perhaps most importantly, feed your discerning appetite.
I did just that at Ulah’s Bistro Bar and Lounge, a delightful upscale eatery nestled in the middle of the block directly across from the infamous Ben’s Chili Bowl. The first thing you notice about Ulah’s when you walk in is how rich it feels – strong, dark wood accents and deep yellow walls welcome you into a calm and comfortable ambiance – and the wait staff is dressed in all-black, providing the perfect backdrop for the colorful, artful creations they serve.
My first brush with the fare came in the form of three luscious appetizers: Ahi Tuna Tartar, Louisiana Shrimp Esplanade and Shrimp Toast. The fresh tuna loin was served over an Asian seaweed salad with a wasabi aioli. It was fresh, it was beautiful and it…was…delectable. The Shrimp Esplanade was served over fried green tomatoes, which provided the perfect foundation for the strong Louisiana flavors – Cajun and Creole – that clung to the spicy shrimp and tantalized my taste buds. And the Shrimp Toast? Here again the shrimp gets some southern comfort from a Creole tomato glaze as it sits atop a crispy crostini, accompanied by a cucumber salad.
It seems appropriate at this point to mention one of the main reasons that the food at Ulah’s has risen to such spicy heights. New Chef, Robert Gelman lit his culinary flame in the famed Warehouse District of New Orleans. Though he went to Tulane University’s Freeman School of Business, a certain celebrity neighbor – celebrated Cajun Chef Emeril Lagasse – drew his attention and inspired him. Gelman eventually hung up his office suit, slipped into a chef’s coat and has been dishing out his own Louisiana flair up and down the eastern seaboard for more than a decade. His most recent stop prior to Ulah’s was at the National Harbor, where he was the executive chef for McCormick & Schmick’s Seafood Restaurants. The Harbor’s loss is U Street’s gain! Welcome Chef Gelman. Please stay a while!
After appetizers we were treated to a true taste of the season – Summer Watermelon Salad. Who knew watermelon could hold its own against the more common salad components of cherry tomatoes, red onions, cucumber and feta cheese? When topped off with homemade cilantro-lime vinaigrette, this salad offers the ideal sweet-yet-savory lead into the main course.
And what a main course it was! Oven roasted chicken, cooked to perfection, herb-marinated and served over a stunningly supportive port wine sauce. With a side of Italian faro and sun-dried tomatoes, this dish proved that fowl fare can be fine food indeed.
True to its moniker, Ulah’s also offers a variety of savory sandwiches that rival any of its entrée selections. We tried the Ham and Gruyere Melt with bistro fries. Bourbon-honey mustard clung to sweet challah bread and gently caressed a generous portion of ham, softening up the typically hard gruyere until it truly melted in my mouth. The apple and golden raisin slaw nearly stole the show, but the crispy bistro fries and deli pickle slices – the likes of which this reviewer hasn’t seen outside of New York! – balanced out the plate, elevating this sandwich way above your typical pub food.
Could I eat anymore? I must! Because the warm bread pudding is not to be missed. Even devout dieters and non-desserters will be tempted by the intoxicating combination of raisins and crème anglaise. Encircled in a ring of rich chocolate for dipping, the bread pudding is a perfect way to end your journey through Ulah’s kitchen creations.
Ulah’s Bistro Bar and Lounge is truly a welcomed treasure on U Street. It has a gorgeous bar downstairs, a lounge upstairs, and patio area perfect for people watching. It’s spacious – it can seat up to 170 – yet intimate, the prices are very reasonable and the menu selection – both food and drink – is wide enough and varied enough to meet any palette.
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City Living Source © 2007
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