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The Reserve
DigestIn’ DC
By Queen B
I almost missed it. I mean, I knew the address but, with the well-worn and well-known Post Pub façade staring me in the face, it wasn’t until I caught site of those massive castle-like doors in my rear view mirror that I knew I’d arrived.
So began my experience of The Reserve. Like its website boasts, the “warm” and “relaxed” atmosphere begins with those impressively rich wood doors. This night I was graciously greeted by a hostess outside and taken immediately upstairs for the tasting. The open seating area and intimate bar on the second floor offered an inviting and comfortable atmosphere, as if I’d arrived home to find a candlelit dinner table ready and waiting.
And then came the red wine flights - the Spicy Ménage a Trios for my friend and the Red Upper Glass trio for me. Their perilous delivery method – you’ll have to experience this for yourself to see what I mean - gave rise to my savior complex and I deftly liberated each glass, sipping one after another before deciding that the Carmenere Santa Digna 2008 Reserve - a welcomed substitution in the flight - would be my partner for the appetizer course.
The Reserve describes itself as offering an international “tapas” menu, but I have rarely seen such portions or enjoyed such eclectic flavors at another tapas restaurants. The Grilled Tomato Bruscetta Salad was not so much a salad as it was a symphony of color and spiciness. The tomatoes were tough yet tender, drizzled with olive oil and pesto, sprinkled with cracked pepper that lingered on the tongue and artfully topped with salty pieces of prosciutto. A masterpiece. The Grilled Hearts of Palm with Chimichurri Sauce seemed an uncommon menu item but proved to be a surprise in both taste and texture. The palms were so smooth and so soft that they almost fell off the fork, and they melted like butter in my mouth. Magnifique!
Next on the tasting agenda were selections from the Fish and Shell Fish menu. Glasses of Yangarra Chardonnay 2007 and Quincy-Dom.de Chevilly 2008 proved to be the perfect companions to Crusted Black Sesame Tuna with Poached Leek and Mustard-Ginger-Miso Sauce; Meuniere of Sword Fish with Fresh Sage and Sliced Almonds; and Roasted Scallops and Fennel with Pineapple, Yuzu and Star Anise Juice.
Again, leeks seemed an odd menu item when compared to The Reserve’s hip, urban atmosphere, but they offered the ideal foundation for the fish, playing soft and sweet against the slightly nutty taste of the crust’s seasoning and the tang of the sauce. The highlight of the sword fish dish – for me – was the intoxicating mix of bok choy, capers and almonds in a light butter sauce. Absolute heaven. And the roasted scallops? They were plump and juicy and made all the more alluring by the surprising blend of its tangy (yuzu), spicy (anise) and sweet (pineapple) base.
Next, a healthy pour of Thomas Henry Pinot Noir 2008 readied my palate for the meats tasting. The Duck Confit Pancakes with Sliced Scallions and Red Cabbage Julienne presented beautifully while the Beef Tartar – a creamy mix of savory salt and tangy Dijon – with meaty Belgian Fries (Belgian not French because they are made by a Belgian chef!) and the cutest little Gherkins pickles showed The Reserve could make even a hamburger plate look refined. The Guinea Hen Jalouise with Shallot Jus and Mizuna Salad held hints of sage and thyme brought to life by the roasted shallots and warmth of the plate.
As if on cue, Chef Frederik De Pue appeared to greet us just after the last forkful of guinea hen disappeared. Born in Belgium, Chef De Pue started his professional career in Monaco in restaurant Louis XV with Chef Alain Ducasse. At 21, he became the sous chef for Restaurant Alain Chapel, a two Michelin-star establishment in Lyons, France, and then went to Brussels to work with Yves Mattagne’s team. Upon first arriving in DC, he was the executive chef to the Ambassador of the Washington Delegation of the European Commission, earning recognition for his innovative menus. In 2007, Chef De Pue launched 42º Catering Services, a company he now balances with his new outlet for gastronomic creativity - The Reserve.
Satisfied that our culinary leadership was suitable (please!), my friend and I set our sights on dessert. I’m not a fan of sweet wines, but the Bodegas Silvano Garcia Monastrell 2007 so flattered the Mojito Chocolate Cake – so sweet, so creamy! – and the Chocolate Caramel and Hazelnut Dome – amazing! – that it was hard not to finish it. (OK, I did finish it.)
From threshold to tab, The Reserve delivers on its promise of casual sophistication. DC can officially welcome another ‘gem de cuisine.’
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City Living Source © 2007
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